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Tool time with Da Reverend - Chris King hub conversion and part compatibility guide

Status: 10/2018
Tags: #chriskingbuzz #PHB #chrisking #hub #upgrade #replacement #partslist #yourguidethroughthejungle #crazybikeindustry

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Preface

Back in the old days, things were easy. Whether you had disc brakes or rim brakes; whether 130, 135 or even 140 mm rear hub spacing: All possible hub variants shared almost all of the parts.

These days are gone, and while I appreciate very much that Chris King continue to support all the hubs they ever made, and apparently do their best in pursuing the concept of sustainability in an industry that went mad, they could do better when it comes to keeping their documentation updated – at least with regard to what is publicly available.*

So, here you go. Created for my own home-mechanical education and herewith shared with everybody who is interested: The inofficial but (almost) comprehensive Chris King hub parts guide. (Which I wish was needless though.) The link to the parts lists can be found on the bottom, let’s start with some FAQs regarding hub conversion − in order to keep up with the brilliant (or not so much) ideas of all the super-innovative frame builders and drivetrain manufacturers.

Should you at any point figure that you are not familiar with the basics of the Chris King hub universe, here is some bed-time reading for you (currently in German only, but the pictures do speak English, too):


*) For some R45 hub models, exploded views are contained in the "Hub instruction manuals" or the "Hub tool instruction manual" that are available in the "Support" section of the Chris King website. Unfortunately these have not been updated to the Gen2 build of the R45D (ISO variant), and there are a few errors in the existing documents (i.e., incorrect part numbers). For the Classic / ISO Disc hub series, you can find some 13 years old exploded view documents in the outskirts of the internet, but these don't tell you anything about XD driveshells, Thru axles or Large Diameter front hubs (not to mention Boost axles). To be fair, Chris King are responsive to e-mail enquiries (which, however, works best if you have a specific request not just a broad idea).


Which tools are required?

Generally, swapping axles does not require any special tools. However, you need to understand whether you’re working on a one-piece axle or on a two-piece axle – there’s a lot of confusion out there and some potential for damage, so if in doubt read the explanation carefully.*

Performing any of the following tasks does require a Chris King hub tool kit:

  • Removal / installation of any ball bearings from / to hubshell.
  • Removal / installation of the inner ball bearing from / to a driveshell.
  • Removal / installation of the driveshell seal ring from a Classic / ISO Disc driveshell in order to access the internals.**


The Chris King tool sets are equally very beautiful and expensive. To make it worse, there actually is two:

  • THB001 − the original one, called just "Hub Tool", for the Classic / ISO Disc hub series. By the way, updated with the advent of the LD front hubs.
  • THB015 − its smaller and younger sibling, called "R45 Hub Tool", for the (you guess it) R45 / R45D series.

Both tool kits look similar but in fact all the components**** do differ in size, i.e. can be used for the specified hub series only. (As an alternative to buying or borrowing, you can have Chris King or your local distributor do the work for you.)



*) The concept of "one-piece axle" vs. "two-piece axle" applies to any Chris King hub. A "one-piece axle" assembly actually involves two or three parts: the axle, an adjusting clamp (i.e. a collar to be threaded onto the axle with a cross-sectional slot to allow compression through a small bolt that secures the adjustment), as applicable thread-in or push-in QR axle end(s).
The "two-piece axle" assembly consists of a main axle complemented by an axle end. Both are connected through a thread-on adjusting cone. This concept allows for inexpensive adaption to various dropout spacing standards but is available for QR frame attachment only. However, the fact that one or both axle ends have some hex wrench profiles doesn't tell you anything about one-piece vs. two-piece!


**) To be precise: In case of a Shimano HG driveshell, only the THB011 "Spliner driver" wrench socket is needed, which is available separately.

***) The current THB001 version − capable of LD hub maintenance − does include some red anodized components, i.e. a pair of bushings (THB021) and a redesigned large split ring (THB020). The previous version (with all pewter anodized parts) is good for all Classic / ISO Disc hub variants (including Boost) with the exception of the LD front hubs and the new Boost AB front hub. An upgrade kit is available.

****) Besides the THB002 "Hub Cone Adjusting Tool", which however is not really needed as you can use your bare hand to tighten or remove the adjusting cone of a two-piece axle (if your hubs have any at all).


 

What do I need to know about ISO Disc (or Classic) conversion?

Conversion of ISO Disc hubs to ISO Disc Boost dropout spacing
Front: Often conversion of front hubs economically makes no sense as all there is left to move is the ball bearings and a pair of plastic seals. However, interestingly it seems that the 15x110 mm Boost axle does as well work with the Small Diameter (SD) ISO Disc front hubshell – not only does the axle fit, also the position of the brake rotor is the same. Not sure why Chris King at all do make a Boost-specific front hubshell; probably the spoke flange design has been refined with respect to slightly different spoke angles. 
Rear: When you own an ISO Disc hub with a one-piece axle, you need a new hubshell and a new axle. Given that you might be able to sell the old axle and hubshell, the cost of the exercise might be reasonable. It depends. (As always when swapping Classic / ISO Disc rear axles, make sure the indicator marked on the axle does correspond with the one of your driveshell internals.)


Conversion of Classic rear hub from 135 mm to 130 mm dropout spacing (or the other way round)
If you’re lucky, your hub is equipped with the two-piece axle. All you have to do is replace the axle end, which is affordable. In case of a one-piece axle, you need a new main axle.


Conversion of ISO Disc hubs from QR axle to (non Boost) Thru axle
Front: The front Quick Release (QR) axle in any case is a two-piece axle assembly, i.e. you need to get a new axle an a (low profile) adjusting clamp. For clarity, a 20x110 mm axle is not available for Small Diameter (SD) front hubs, but a 12x100 mm axle is now available for road (or rather gravel) bike applications.
Rear: In case of a two-piece axle, you need a new axle and (high profile) adjusting clamp. In case of a one-piece QR axle, you can keep the adjusting clamp and need a new axle only. 


Conversion of ISO Disc Large Diameter (LD) front hubs
Most importantly, you need to understand whether your hub is a Gen1 or Gen2 build as the axles are generation-specific. (The serial number shown on the hubshell, either 171... or 172..., will tell you. Further, I understand that Gen2 axles have grooves at the axle end.) For a swap from 20x110 mm to 15x100 mm or vice versa, just replace the axle. (QR axles are not available for the LD front hubs.) The Gen2 LD front hub can also be converted to a Lefty hub (but not to a Lefty SuperMax hub). For the Lefty conversion, a number of new parts is required, which are available as a conversion kit.


Conversion of Classic / ISO Disc rear hubs from Shimano HG to Sram XD driveshell (or vice versa)
Conversion to Sram XD is not cheap as this driveshell is available in stainless steel only, i.e. more expensive than the Shimano Aluminum driveshell. In addition, you need a new driveshell seal ring and capture seal.
The other way of conversion should normally result in even some extra cash in your pocket as pre-owned Shimano HG driveshells are quite often being offered, and used XD driveshells are sought after.


What should be considered when it comes to R45 conversion?

Conversion of R45 rear hubs from Shimano HG 10-speed to 11-speed
You need a new driveshell and a new axle. Both look similar to what you have, but are different in detail and therefore marked. As the conversion will make the hubshell move approx. 2 mm towards the non-drive side, you will have to redish the wheel.


Conversion of R45 or R45D rear hubs from Shimano HG to Campagnolo driveshell (or the other way round)
Possible, but expensive (unless you manage to find someone who'd like to swap): You need a new driveshell, a new axle, a new driveshell spacer spring and a new outer ball bearing for the driveshell. Make sure that the new driveshell (and, if applicable, Shimano axle) is a recent one, i.e. in case of Campagnolo the stainless steel version, in case of Shimano HG the 11-speed version (driveshell and axle). For moving the inner driveshell ball bearing (which is the same for Campagnolo and Shimano HG), the "R45 hub tool" is required – the easier way is purchasing a driveshell including all the internals.


Conversion of R45 Disc hubs from QR axle to Thru axle
You need a new axle and adjusting clamp for the front, and a new axle for the rear. (For the rear, make sure you pick the correct version that matches the hubshell generation.) For the Campagnolo driveshell, by the way, only the QR axle is available for the time being.


Conversion of R45 Disc hubs from ISO (6-hole) to Centerlock disc mount standard
Front: You need a new hubshell.
Rear: In case your rear hub is a Gen2 build already, you need a new hubshell and a new adjusting clamp. In case your rear hub is a Gen1, also a new axle is required.



All right, but where can I find your parts lists now?

As the webmaster still does not allow PDF or even XLSX file attachments here, you please need to go there:
https://forum.tour-magazin.de/showthread.php?388707-Chris-King-hub-spare-parts-lists-Ersatzteillisten-Naben

 

Practically, where can I purchase Chris King hub parts?

These are some key options:

  • Concerning spare parts, Chris King sell directly to end customers (not sure whether outside of the U.S. though), see "Small parts" section (www.chrisking.com).
  • However, the best online source in my opinion is the online retailer AVT (www.avt.bike). Their web shop is even more comprehensive that the one maintained by Chris King themselves. AVT ships worldwide and according to my experience are friedly and supportive. As applicable, you need to factor in import charges (for Germany, that would be 19% import VAT and some 5% customs charges) and also some extra time for the customs authority's procedures (no further comment).
  • The Germay-based online retailer with the widest (but not comprehensive) selection in my view is Hibike (www.hibike.de).
  • Also very supportive (not sure whether serving end customers) is Cosmic Sports, the official distributor for Germany (www.cosmicsports.de).

The above is not an exhaustive list. I have no commercial interest whatsoever in any of the afore mentioned businesses. In my opinion the part catalogues of all the above are not great in terms of structure and accuracy / completeness of part descriptions, but if you have identified the part number already the search functions will get you right to the point.

Oh and yes, there is sources like eBay or the classified ad sections of bike forums. You can make a bargain if you precisely know what your're looking for – and you are able to tell from the pictures whether the part on offer is actually what you need – my experience shows that descriptions provided by sellers often are ambiguous, misleading and/or inaccurate. Some seemingly knowledgeable sellers expressively specify the incorrect part number. Others do offer driveshells taken from a Classic hub that mysteriously are supposed to fit R45 hubs. There are ISO Disc rear axle ads lacking the mating indicator information (e.g., "2+" or "3"), or LD front hub axle offerings without specifying the hub generation. In short: plenty of traps. But some chances, too. If you're the only one spotting that the R45 10-speed rear axle and driveshell actually are the 11-speed versions, you can make a really good deal ...

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Pictures:
( 1 ) Serial number on ISO Disc rear hubshell (Rennmaus, it's yours)
( 2 ) Bits and pieces that make a ISO Disc rear hub
( 3 ) Rear hubshells – ISO Disc vs. ISO Disc "Boost"
( 4 ) Rear Thru axles – ISO Disc 12x142 vs. ISO Disc "Boost" 12x148
( 5 ) R45 rear hubshell
( 6 ) Campagnolo driveshell and axle
( 7 ) Orchids in "Matte Punch"
( 8 ) Siblings – "R45 Hub Tool" (on the left) vs. (original version of) original "Hub Tool" for Classic / ISO Disc

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Posted by Reverend on 21.10.2018 - 20:11
D&D - Dies & Das

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